j.w anderson/loewe spring 2015

J.W Anderson

j.w anderson's collection for spring was fascinating. at first glance, you can't help but notice the ugly-odd shapes, unappealing colours, misshapen leather. it's also incredibly feminine. the misshapen leather created the illusion of waists on tiny models, slivers of midriff shown between matching skirt and tops, and lots of leg ending in loafers with bell skirts for heels. JWA refuses to acknowledge that he may have had a nautical influence but it's hard to deny with looks with roping, stripes and golden buttons reoccurring. This collection is probably the most unlike anything he's done before, but everyone's eye is truly on him now, with his debut at Loewe that happened today.

Loewe:

The first collection by JWA for Loewe has broken a spell. We've all come to be skeptical of young designers at old houses (coughBalenciaga) but between Nicolas' LV and JWA's Loewe, I think there's a new hope to be found. The collection was split into two categories: the beige and the beautiful. Most of the collection fell well in place with the neutral theme of the season, lots of beige, navy, white and black, but it contrasted nicely to bright blues, oranges and red that were merely hints in other collections so far this season. There was fragility to suede scrap dresses, rough-looking knitted tanks, pleated skirts (or are they pants?) and leather pants with matching belts, 

I think this collection was much stronger than the one under his own name. Maybe it's the tradition he has to build on top of, where he's still figuring out his own DNA at JWA. Maybe he poured more of his creative energies into this, to prove something. But everyone is, and should be, excited for the future of Loewe. There is no Dior-esque boredom in sight. 

teen vogue october 2014

vanessa moody by kacper kasprzyk

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self service fall 2014

images are out of order. check source for original order

Steffy Argelich, Emmy Rappe, Julia Bergshoeff, Jean Campbell, Misha Hart, Olivia David, Emma Waldo, Alba Galocha, Julia Jamin, Matilda Lowther, Amalie Schmidt, Djura Siebenga, & Fern Bainsmith by Jamie Hawksworth

source.

vera wang spring 2015

Vera Wang is always a sleeper collection. Sometimes it's incredibly good and no one notices, and sometimes its pretty tacky and no one notices. I still try to keep my eye on it despite this. This latest collection, described by Wang herself as "Boyish Boudoir, Baby Bohemian" is an all-black, bruised eye beauty. Lots of tailored, belted pieces with frills and pleats contrasted with floaty layered dresses that weren't quite floral but not polka-dotted either. There's no direct theme to this collection, you can't call it one style or another, and there's no direct narrative, but I think it is a beautiful collection of clothes. What caught my eye the most was the beauty aspect though. The wavy hair with the hidden braids underneath paired with a personal favorite, bruisy purple eyes was kind of like a dream come true. One of my go-to makeup situations is very similar, a discontinued dusky purple eyeshadow from Clinique called "Enchanted", but the outcome is the same: really beautiful eyes. I certainly wouldn't put this in my top ten collections, but there are several backstage shots saved to my makeup files. If the all-bare trend continues in Milan and Paris, it may be one of my favourites of the season.

sources are style.com and stylebistro.com/runway

girls to look for no.1

Amelia Roman

Height:5'10.5"

Bust: 32.5"

Waist: 23.5"

Hips: 34"

An almost brand new girl, recently signed to Women with a mother agent of D'Vision Poland, I think she's gonna sweep some shows, especially in Milan. Her debut was officially at Alexander Wang (below) and it will be no surprise if she shows up at Balenciaga as well. She vaguely reminds me of Lisa V, at least in this weird cheekbone kind of way.

She's also walked Tommy Hilfiger, Marc by Marc Jacobs, and one or two other shows so far, and that's just NY. She's sure staying exclusive, or maybe she's just appealing to those with a refined eye. I think she'll be a real contender for high numbers, at least next season if she makes it through the campaign season. 

I can see her at: Calvin Klein, Mary Kantrantzou, Peter Pilotto, Prada, Marni, Chanel, Missoni, and Miu Miu. I'll take bets whether she shows up at these shows this season. 

rodarte spring 2015

Rodarte-probably one of the most polarising and unpredictable shows in all of NYFW. After a seasons-long disappearance, the Mulleavys return to true form and give us the goods. (I merely pretend those years of weird Star Wars or Monet dresses don't exist). I've sat at my computer for a couple of years now, full of hope that *this* would be the collection, the one that brought it all back to the days of beautiful knitwork and bargain-bin fabric frankenstein dresses. Spring 2015 is the closest I'll get to it, and I'll happily take it. It was absolutely beautiful. I never bought into the nostalgic view of mermaids taken on by (mostly TERF) girls on tumblr, but I can easily buy into this vision. Rumours are this is just a preview of costumes for Sofia Coppola's Little Mermaid. which I recall is starring Andreja Pejic. I hope so. The one draw for me to her movies is the costuming after all. (Marie Antoinette-such a waste of time and money, but so pleasing to the eye!) But I digress.

Many people I know don't particularly like it,  buy into the idea that last season was the highest point we'll ever get again from the brand. Fashion is dividing. I can't stand going on TFS threads of collections I love, just because I see red whenever I see dissenting comments. I AM THE ULTIMATE AUTHORITY!!! How dare they cross me!!!

But really. The dresses covered in netting and shimmer with slightly athletic stripes hidden underneath, jackets that I would only kill for, off the shoulder but not off the shoulder blouses paired with skinny pants and lace up boots. Take it all in folks. This may be a sign of good things to come, or it may be a fluke, but it's still a good collection.

all pictures via style.com

vogue uk october 2014

natalie westling by karim sadli

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